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Cisternino, Puglia: A Comprehensive Travel Guide

Cisternino is a picturesque town located in the province of Brindisi, in Puglia. Standing proudly atop a hill, it overlooks the scenic Itria Valley and part of the Murgia dei Trulli. 

Like most Apulian villages, Cisternino is renowned for its whitewashed old town, adorned with colorful flowers hanging from windows and balconies.

It also has an incredibly rich history, with evidence showing that it dates all the way back to the Messapian civilization… That’s around 10 centuries BC!

While it’s probably evolved considerably, Cisternino remains a very traditional, authentic location. Its intricate, narrow alleys and historic architecture make it a beautiful place to get lost wandering (as much as you can get lost in this tiny town).

The town, though small, boasts a vibrant local culture and delicious cuisine. I’m Italian and I used to visit Puglia very often with my parents when I was growing up. However, it wasn’t until recently that I made it to Cisternino as it’s a bit off the beaten path.

A woman standing in a narrow alley in Cisternino, with brimming flower pots hanging from white facades to her right

This town sees mostly Italian tourists, and definitely not as many as Ostuni or Alberobello. It’s a great destination if you’re looking to spend one or two days walking around, chilling, eating, and living il dolce far niente.

In this article, you’ll find all the information you need to plan a memorable trip to Cisternino, Puglia – whether that’s a day trip or more!

HOW TO GET TO CISTERNINO 

A woman standing in front of Cisternino's train station entrance

How to Get to Cisternino from Bari 

The train from Bari Centrale to Cisternino takes 50 minutes, and tickets cost around €6 at the time of writing. There are many departures throughout the day, starting at 5 AM and ending at 11 PM.

If you’re driving, the ride should take you about an hour along the SS16. The distance between the two towns is 48 miles (77 km). 

How to Get to Cisternino from Lecce 

The best way to reach Cisternino from Lecce is by train. The train ride takes one hour, and tickets cost around €8 at the time of writing. Trains are available from 5 AM to 9 PM.

The distance between the two towns is 62 miles (100 km), and the drive takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes via SS613 and Strada Statale 379. 

How to Get to Cisternino from Other Places 

From Alberobello: The fastest train journey takes 50 minutes, although it can be longer depending on the transfer time (there are no direct trips). Tickets cost only €3 at the time of writing. You could also take the bus for €2.

Driving from Alberobello takes 30 minutes, covering a distance of 11 miles (18 km). 

From Ostuni: The train ride takes just 7 minutes. The ticket costs €1.30 at the time of writing. Departures are available almost every hour.

Ostuni is 8.5 miles (13 km) from Cisternino, and the drive takes 20 minutes. 

THINGS TO DO IN CISTERNINO 

Wander Around the Historic Center

Cisternino’s Old Town is an absolute delight to explore. Its hidden corners, narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, and spontaneous architecture are a treat to the eyes. I love the contrast of its white walls with the bright green of the olive trees that surround the town.

While strolling along the town’s streets, you’ll get to admire the numerous churches of Cisternino. Find beautiful artwork and gems to photograph, and catch glimpses of the surrounding countryside! 

You can also find poems and plenty of swings around town, which make it particularly Instagrammable.

Walk through archways, take in the atmosphere at the piazzas, and immerse yourself in the historic vibrance of Cisternino. If you want to explore the old town more in-depth and discover its history and culture, you can join a walking tour such as the one below.

This Cisternino: 2-Hour Authentic Italian Village Tour introduces you to the major landmarks and hidden gems. You’ll delve into the town’s past, learn about the purpose of its buildings, and get invaluable tips from your guide. ➥ BOOK IT HERE

Visit Chiesa Madre di San Nicola Patara

One of the major landmarks of Cisternino is Chiesa Madre di San Nicola, also known as Mother Church of San Nicola di Patara. Dating back to the 13th century, the building showcases different archaeological styles, a testament to its numerous reconstructions over the centuries. 

Its facade is white and simple, and the interior is decorated with frescoes, columns, and sculptures. Including one of Saint Nicholas, of course. Besides its religious significance, the church is also a symbol of the historic and cultural heritage of the town.

Have Dinner at One of the Fornelli 

Cisternino is renowned for its fornelli, traditional butcher shops where you can choose your meat cut and enjoy it grilled to perfection. These cheap eateries can be found all over town, and perfume the streets at all hours.

The fornelli will prepare your meal on the spot, so you only need to walk in and order. Eating there is one of the best things you can do in Cisternino if you’re looking for authentic and traditional. 

A butcher shop where women can be seen working in the back

On top of the most famous fornello, Zio Pietro, the top-rated shops in town are Al Vecchio Fornello, and Al Fornello, although you can’t go wrong with any! 

Since you’re at it, you might as well try another local specialty: the bombette. These small meat rolls are stuffed with cheese and pancetta, and make for the perfect side dish to your barbecued meat. 

Catch the Views from Torre Civica

Cisternino’s Civic Tower, also known as Torre Normano-Sveva, is a historical landmark with one of the best views in town.

The medieval structure, dating back to the 13th century, was part of Cisternino’s defensive system, and it stands out for its robust-looking square shape. 

Image of Torre Normano-Sveva

Visitors can climb to the top of the tower using the internal stairs, and be rewarded by the panoramic vistas of the historic center. Enjoy the views over the white-washed town and its winding streets, and the lush Itria Valley all around it. 

You’ll spot the vineyards and olive groves that dot the rolling hills, and maybe even some of the prehistoric trulli houses around the village! Don’t forget to explore the tower’s rooms to learn about Cisternino and its rich history and heritage as well.

Soak up the Atmosphere at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is the main square in Cisternino. It’s the social hub and cultural center of the town, and a wonderful place to sit down for a coffee and people-watch. 

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Cisternino

Tourists and locals mingle here, either passing through or meeting up for an aperitivo at the many outdoor bars and cafes. Psst. Palazzo Amati and Il Cucco are great options to check out, should you want to stop for a drink! 

Located in the heart of Cisternino, it’s also surrounded by major landmarks worth checking out. The imposing Clock Tower, built in 1850, dominates the piazza, which is also surrounded by palaces and historic buildings. 

You might also stumble upon an event or local market, as Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele hosts most of the town’s festivities. 

Check Out Ponte della Madonnina

Ponte della Madonnina isn’t exactly a bridge, despite its name. It’s more of a crossing that can be accessed from either side or by climbing up the stairs from below. In the middle of the bridge you’ll see a statue of the Madonnina (a little Madonna) after which it’s named. 

Why am I sending you to this bridge? For the views! You’ll get glorious vistas over Valle d’Itria as you stroll along it. It’s also a very photogenic attraction on its own, so make sure to walk past it as you wander around the old town. 

Explore the Surrounding Countryside

Cisternino is one of the gem towns of the Itria Valley, surrounded by the enchanting Apulian countryside. Rolling hills expand in all directions from the hilltop town, composing a stunning landscape worth admiring. 

Views of the countryside with a few white houses dotting the green landscape

But how about you immerse yourself in the countryside instead? Either by bike or on foot, you can head out to explore the olive trees and vineyards around Cisternino, and traverse its beautiful country trails. 

You can visit nearby local farmhouses, get up close to the cone-shaped Trulli houses, or go wine tasting! Apulian wine may not be as renowned as its Tuscan or Umbrian counterparts, but it has nothing to envy them. 

You’ll find quite a few wineries in the countryside around Cisternino, and there are phenomenal tours and tastings you can join. 

▶️ The Visit a Winery and an oil mill in Cisternino is a great way to immerse yourself in the local production. You’ll tour a winery, learning about the making process of wine, and discover the art of turning olives into delicious olive oil. Tastings of both products are included. ➥ BOOK IT HERE

▶️ An amazing alternative is this Wine tasting in a private Trulli complex with vineyard. You’ll visit a historic vineyard in the Itria Valley, and indulge in a tasting led by an expert sommelier. The experience takes place inside a Trulli, and will enable you to identify different wines as you discover their unique properties. ➥ BOOK IT HERE

Attend Cisternino’s Festivals

Cisternino is not only a historical town because of its architecture and heritage, but for keeping its traditions alive.

Its rituals and folklore are exposed during the Feast of San Quirico, which involves traditional dancing and music, processions, and lively markets, capped with a fireworks display. The festivities take place between July and August.  

Easter Monday, known as Pasquaredde in the local dialect, is another important festa. On this day, the locals head to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Ibernia, a Romanesque church immersed in nature. They come to offer typical sweets to the virgin, a veneration that’s associated with abundance and fertility. 

Stroll through Villa Comunale Giuseppe Garibaldi

For a dose of greenery and a peaceful ambiance, make your way to Villa Comunale Giuseppe Garibaldi. This enchanting public garden is the perfect retreat to relax and take a stroll in nature. 

A woman admiring the views of Cisternino from a viewpoint

The park is very well maintained, and it features a variety of trees, plants, and flower beds that make it a green oasis in the center of town. Paved pathways meander through the garden, setting the route for your stroll. There are also benches to relax in, and a children’s playground to keep the little ones entertained. 

From Villa Comunale you’ll also be able to appreciate the scenic views of the surrounding countryside. Those alone are worth the visit!

Embark on a Day Trip to the Nearby Towns 

The Itria Valley, where Cisternino is located, is home to some of the cutest small towns in Italy. So why stick to one when you can see them all? 

➤ If you have enough time, I would highly recommend going on a day trip to the nearby towns of Ostuni, Martina Franca, and Locorotondo.

A woman wearing a black tank top and green shorts, standing in a narrow street lined by café tables and plants

Otherwise, you can also go on a road trip where you change location every one or two nights. This is what Fran and I did. We traveled light and used public transport to visit the most iconic locations in Puglia, but a car would probably be recommended (even more if you don’t speak Italian, as bus stops are not well marked in this part of the country).

Alberobello should also be top of your list, with its fairytale-looking trulli houses and rich history. It’s a 20-minute drive away from the city of Cisternino.

A woman in a long dress standing outside Trulli houses

➤ You could also venture to iconic cities like Matera and Bari, which shouldn’t be missing from your Puglian itinerary. Matera is the world’s third-oldest city, so a must-visit location for history buffs (and one of my favorite destinations in my country).

The buildings of Matera, built atop a rugged rock

The city of Bari, known for its beautiful harbor, bustling market, and the impressive Basilica of San Nicola, is Puglia’s capital. It’s also one of Southern Italy’s most vibrant cities, and worth a visit.

The striking coastline of Salento offers memorable landscapes and beautiful beaches, making it an unbeatable summer destination as well! 

WHERE TO EAT IN CISTERNINO 

Looking to immerse yourself in the gastronomic world of Cisternino? You’re in for a treat with the mouthwatering Pugliese cuisine! These are the top restaurants where you can sample local bites. 

A narrow street packed with restaurant tables, and people having a meal

Zio Pietro Restaurant is one of the best eateries in town, and probably the most famous of all. It specializes in Southern Italian cuisine with a strong focus on regional meats. Just as you would in any other fornello, you’ll order your meat at the counter and be seated as it’s grilled right then and there. The bombette are also iconic at Zio Pietro!

If you’re visiting in the summer, beware that there is always a long line, and they don’t accept reservations. To avoid waiting for a long time, get here before opening time so you’ll be one of the first ones to be served.

Trattoria Bére Vecchie is a charming, highly-rated Italian restaurant with outdoor seating and mouthwatering Apulian cuisine. You’ll have the opportunity to try grilled meats, bombette, orecchiette pasta, and a few vegetarian dishes paired with local wines. 

Osteria Bell’Italia is an elegant establishment serving authentic Italian cuisine that combines traditional flavors with a modern twist. It features many specialties of the house as well, and it stands out for its refined service and beautifully presented dishes. 

Al Vecchio Fornello is a local favorite when it comes to Fornelli in Cisternino. Unless meat isn’t part of your diet, you shouldn’t miss this typical dining experience! The aforementioned Zio Pietro Restaurant is also a great place to try the grilled meat, along with most fornelli in town.  

WHERE TO STAY IN CISTERNINO

STAY IN A TRULLOB&B Masseria Piccola offers a unique stay at a typical Trullo building, which dates back to the early 1900s. Each accommodation has a private bathroom, and overlooks the lovely shared patio, where breakfast is served every morning. 

LUXURY: Alcova Cellini Bell’Italia is an enchanting guest house equipped with a kitchen, a minibar, a private bathroom with bathrobes and slippers, and a terrace. There’s also an on-site restaurant, and additional amenities such as wine or champagne. Breakfast is included at a local cafe in the main square.

The interior of a Trulli house, with a dining table, a TV, and some furnishings

This is where I stayed last time I was in Cisternino and it was really perfect (although beware you’ll have to climb a ladder to get to the bed). The location couldn’t have been more central, but it was tucked away so it was perfectly quiet.

BOUTIQUE: Suite Dantè – Typical Apulian Rooms offers units with a private entrance, and are fully equipped for a comfortable stay. There’s a kitchenette, a bathroom with walk-in shower and toiletries, and a double bed. An Italian breakfast is served every morning. 

ON A BUDGET:  Dimora Cappuccini Guest House is a budget-friendly, air-conditioned accommodation. It features rooms with a private bathroom, and is equipped with a double or two single beds, and a flat-screen TV. Some units include a balcony. 

TIPS FOR VISITING CISTERNINO

▶️ The historical center of Cisternino is best explored on foot, so make sure to wear comfortable shoes.

▶️The old town is a ZTL (Limited Traffic Area), so if you’re driving there, you’ll need to find a parking area outside the historic center. Parcheggio Via Calavilonna Cisternino is a free parking space near the city center. 

▶️ The best time to visit Cisternino is between April and June, or in September and October. The weather during these months, which are considered the shoulder season, is still mild. You’ll also benefit from the quieter atmosphere of the area without the summer crowds. 

▶️ Cisternino is a town with great attractions, but it’s also a fantastic base to explore the Itria Valley and the rest of Puglia. If you have enough time, make sure to visit nearby towns and attractions as well!  

▶️ Savor the regional cuisine. It’s a given you’ll be stuffing yourself with Italian cuisine (I hope!) However, Southern Italy – and the region of Puglia in particular – boasts traditional flavors and recipes that cannot be found in other parts of the country. Make sure to try bombette at the local fornelli, and orecchiette pasta during your visit! 

▶️ If you’re in Cisternino on a Monday, you’ll get to explore the local market which sells fresh produce, cheeses, regional products, and clothes, among other things. 

  • Stefania Guglielmi

    Stefania Guglielmi is the founder of Every Steph. Originally from Bologna, Italy, she's been traveling full-time since 2016 and has visited over 50 countries across 6 continents. She believes sustainable travel and luxury travel can go hand in hand and has been advocating for responsible tourism since 2014. Stefania's advice and travel experiences have been featured in important publications such as Business Insider, Refinery29, and Yahoo Money.